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President Donald Trump declared that America will be “woke no longer” while trashing DEI in Tuesday night’s address to Congress, and perhaps a recalibration in the fashion industry has signaled that cultural change as well.
Once dominated by progressive and socially-conscious minimalism, some in the industry now appear to be leaning into its more extravagant side and turning away from “woke” ideals while embracing luxury and decadence, according to a New York Times opinion piece published Wednesday.
Fashion journalist Amy Odell speculated that the industry may have “given up” on “woke,” and the shift reflects a broader cultural change that encompasses a broader spectrum of political views.
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Once dominated by progressive and socially-conscious minimalism, some in the industry now appear to be leaning into its more extravagant side and turning away from “woke” ideals while embracing luxury and decadence, according to a New York Times opinion piece published Wednesday. (Photo by Jakub Porzycki/NurPhoto via Getty Images)
“For the past decade, fashion was trying to be socially and environmentally conscious… However sincere the motivation — many people, especially on the creative side of fashion, share progressive values — making the world a more diverse, equitable, inclusive and sustainable place didn’t always sit well with luxury, either practically or aesthetically.
“Now that all seems to be over, and maybe that’s OK,” the piece read in part.
Conservative women, once sidelined by fashion, are now receiving recognition from some designers, Odell added.
For example, LVMH, the parent company of designer brands Dior and Givenchy, created two couture looks for Ivanka Trump during her father’s inauguration, signaling a willingness to work with figures outside the progressive realm.
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US First Lady Melania Trump, right, and US Second Lady Usha Vance during the 60th presidential inauguration in Emancipation Hall of the US Capitol in Washington, DC, US, on Monday, Jan. 20, 2025. Usha Vance wore a pink Oscar de la Renta ensemble while Melania Trump sported navy coat and skirt designed by Adam Lippes. (Angelina Katsanis/Politico/Bloomberg via Getty Images)
Odell also pointed out that Oscar de la Renta, which boasts a long history of dressing first ladies of both parties – Nancy Reagan and Hillary Clinton, among others – showcased its looks for Ivanka Trump and Second Lady Usha Vance on social media.
It’s a stark contrast to the “litmus test” for the fashion industry accepting conservatives, when multiple designer brands declined to dress first lady Melania Trump for the first Trump inauguration, she continued, adding, “The designers who said in 2016 they would dress Mrs. Trump, including Dolce & Gabbana, Thom Browne and Carolina Herrera, don’t seem any worse off for it.”
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At the same time, Vogue’s support for former Vice President Kamala Harris, including one issue which included interviews from some of her supporters and a cover that referred to her as the “candidate for our times,” is said to have fallen flat.
“It’s hard to argue that the endorsement of Kamala Harris by Vogue magazine and its editor Anna Wintour last year moved the needle for anyone. It might have even made the Democrats seem out of touch to some voters,” Odell wrote.
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Adam Lippes, who constructed Melania Trump’s 2025 inauguration look with pride, also saw a sales boost after this year’s ceremony, according to the piece.
